Suwon Hwaseong Fortress

Jeongjo, the 22nd king of Joseon, moved the tomb of his father Crown Prince Sado (later honoured as Crown Prince Jangheon), who had died in a rice chest after being caught up in factional politics, from Baebongsan in Yangju to Hwasan in Suwon. He then moved the centre of the town near Hwasan to its present site below Paldalsan, and the fortress came to be built. The Korea Heritage Service records that in 1789 (Jeongjo 13) Suwon was moved to the foot of the east side of Paldalsan, that construction of the fortress began in 1794 (Jeongjo 18) and that it was finished in 1796. The Suwon Cultural Foundation explains that the fortress grew not only out of filial devotion to his father, but was also the centre of his plan to end factional politics and govern as a strong ideal king, and a defensive stronghold south of the capital.

The fortress follows Joseon’s tradition of building with the lie of the land, yet also brought in new defensive structures. The Silhak scholar Jeong Yak-yong looked widely at Korean and Chinese fortress-building methods and planned the scale, defensive structures and materials of the walls; he also devised the geojunggi, a crane for lifting heavy materials easily, and the yuhyeonggeo, a sturdy cart, which cut construction costs. Every stage of the work was recorded in a report called the Hwaseong Seongyeok Uigwe, down to drawings and the dimensions and quantities of materials, and repairs and restorations are still based on this book today. The book was inscribed on UNESCO’s Memory of the World Register in 2007.

Hwaseong is valuable not only for its walls but also as a fortified city planned and built in the late 18th century. It sits at a transport hub linking Seoul and the three southern provinces, and is said to carry Jeongjo’s wish to build a prosperous city and the spirit of Silhak. It was designated a Historic Site on 21 January 1963 and became a World Heritage Site in 1997. During the Korean War the gate towers of Janganmun and Changnyongmun were destroyed and were rebuilt in 1975 and 1976.

Walking around the fortress is free and possible at any time, but Hwaseong Haenggung is a separate facility. Hwaseong Haenggung is open 09:00–18:00 (last entry one hour before) all year round. Adult admission is 2,000 won, and a combined ticket covering Hwaseong Haenggung, the Suwon Hwaseong Museum and the Suwon Museum is 4,000 won for adults. It is free on Culture Day, the last Wednesday of each month (except for night opening), and also free for anyone wearing hanbok and for those aged 65 and over or 6 and under.

The fortress is 5.74 km long in all. The Suwon Cultural Foundation’s recommended routes suggest combining a walk along the walls with Hwaseong Haenggung, the archery experience and the Hwaseong Eocha for a half-day or full-day outing. There are information desks at Janganmun, Paldalmun, Seojangdae, Yeonmudae, Hwahongmun and elsewhere, and cultural tourism commentary is available. The audio guide Odii, made by the Korea Tourism Organization, also covers Suwon Hwaseong Fortress and Hwaseong Haenggung.

By public transport, according to the Suwon Cultural Foundation, take express bus 1007 from Jamsil Station in Seoul and get off at the Hwaseong Haenggung·Yeominnak stop, about a 5-minute walk away. From Gangnam Station, take bus 3000 and get off at the Paldalmun stop, about a 5-minute walk. From the stop in front of Exit 4 of Suwon Station, take city bus 11 or 13 and get off at the Hwaseong Haenggung·Suwon Seongji stop.